Tag: Japan Climbing

Firsts, Falls, and Fastest Runs: China Sweeps Gold at Guiyang Speed World Cup

Firsts, Falls, and Fastest Runs: China Sweeps Gold at Guiyang Speed World Cup

Lightning & Firsts: Guiyang Speed World Cup Delivers Golds, PBs, and Surprise Exits

China’s Guiyang stop of the IFSC Speed World Cup closed out the season with a volley of first-time winners, photo-finishes, and record-breaking heart. In front of a roaring home crowd, Chinese climbers stole both gold medals. But the story was far more than just home advantage—it was about razor-thin margins, mental grit, and unexpected exits.


Key Matches & Climbs

Women

  • Meng Shixue broke through in style. Her gold in Guiyang was her first ever World Cup medal, and it went to her in spectacular fashion on home soil with a time of 6.30 seconds, edging Jeong Jimin, who finished at 6.36 seconds.
  • Emma Hunt earned bronze after Zhou Yafei had a full fall in the bronze medal match—6.44 seconds was enough for Hunt to stand on the podium.
  • In the semifinals Meng had posted a personal best of 6.29 s over Hunt’s 6.35 s, setting up her gold-bout confidence. Jeong advanced past Zhou with 6.42 s vs 6.51 s.

Men

  • Chu Shouhong took gold with a personal best 4.79 seconds, beating Ryo Omasa (4.99) in the gold match.
  • Leander Carmanns grabbed bronze in a tight match, finishing at 4.98 seconds, just ahead of Yaroslav Tkach’s 5.11 in that bronze race.
  • Even earlier rounds were dramatic: Zach Hammer posted a sharp 4.959 s in the Round of 16. Tkach set a new European record in qualifications with 4.86 s. Ryo Omasa’s silver bumped him up to third in the overall speed standings.

Upsets, Slips & Storylines

  • Unexpected exits: Sam Watson (USA), the men’s world record holder, and Kiromal Katibin (Indonesia), the season leader, both went out in the Round of 16.
  • Slipping was epidemic. Nearly every round saw at least one athlete undone by a slip—especially in the early and middle sections. It made rhythm, reaction time, and composure more decisive than raw speed.
  • Firsts all around: For Meng, this was the breakthrough. Carmanns and Omasa solidified strong seasons by converting opportunities into podiums at just the right moment.

What It Means in the Big Picture

  • With his gold in Guiyang, Chu Shouhong clinches the men’s speed title in style.
  • On the women’s side, Emma Hunt secures the season title. Even though she wasn’t gold tonight, her consistency across events made her the overall champion.
  • Ryo Omasa’s silver lifts him into third in the overall season standings—he ends the year as part of a top-three that includes Katibin and Watson.
IFSC Koper Lead World Cup Recap: Home Golds, Heartbreak, and Season Crowns

IFSC Koper Lead World Cup Recap: Home Golds, Heartbreak, and Season Crowns

Men’s Recap

Setting the Stage

In Koper’s golden evening, the setters delivered a route as poetic as it was punishing—flowing with rhythm, decision moments, and momentum. It was climbing as cinema, every hold a scene.

Bright Liminals & Early Exits

The climb’s elegance made even a tiny slip feel seismic. Neo Suzuki’s right foot popped early, ending his final at 10+, a gut-punch exit from one of the favorites.
Putra Tri Ramadani quietly became another headline—Indonesia, known for speed climbing dominance, now showing real promise in lead. His first World Cup final was a breakthrough.

Olympic Glory vs World Cup Glory

All eyes were on Alberto Gines Lopez—an Olympic gold medalist yet still chasing his first World Cup win. He climbed to 47, sealing a medal and his best shot yet at that elusive gold. But Toby Roberts followed and fell at 46, cementing Gines Lopez’s silver.

Only One Japanese Climber Could Medal

Satone Yoshida sat nervously on the bubble of the podium with a score of 45, watching as his compatriot Sorato Anraku close the competition. Anraku delivered, reaching 48 to clinch gold—and leave Gines Lopez still chasing his first World Cup victory.

Men’s Podium – Koper Lead World Cup

RankClimberResult
1Sorato Anraku (JPN)48+
2Alberto Gines Lopez (ESP)47+
3Toby Roberts (GBR)46+

Women’s Recap

Slovenia’s Sisters Take the Stage

In the electric atmosphere of Koper, four Slovenian women earned tickets to the final—an emphatic home showcase of depth and talent. Janja Garnbret, in peak form, shared a perfect semi-final climb with South Korea’s Seo Chaehyun, setting up a heavyweight battle in front of Garnbret’s home crowd.

Early Benchmarks

Erin McNeice climbed with a methodical approach, taking her time through the wall. She struggled with the clip before the roof but fought through, becoming the first to touch the headwall. Her climb ended just after, and though she held the high mark through four climbers, her disappointment was plain.

Laura Rogora, often tested by the big dynamic moves, managed to find a more static solution through the dyno. True to form, she flirted with the clock, still in the roof with 30 seconds left. She reached the headwall and guaranteed herself a medal, falling with just a handful of seconds to spare.

The Queen of Koper

Janja Garnbret is only competing in three World Cups this season, and hearing the roar when she stepped to the wall made it obvious why Koper was one of them. She reached the headwall with more than two minutes still on the clock, the crowd growing louder with each move. The finish required a taxing traverse rightward before a dyno to the last hold. Her right foot slipped on the leap, leaving her one hold shy of the top—but the ovation thundered anyway.

The Decider

Seo Chaehyun climbed with McNeice sitting on the bubble at 33. She steadied herself after a wobble around 24 and pressed higher. Once she touched the headwall the podium was set, bumping McNeice out. Seo fell at 38, edging past Rogora’s 37+ to lock in silver and confirm Garnbret as Koper’s champion.

Women’s Podium – Koper Lead World Cup

RankClimberResult
1Janja Garnbret (SLO)47+
2Seo Chaehyun (KOR)38+
3Laura Rogora (ITA)37+