Tag: Alberto Gines Lopez

IFSC Koper Lead World Cup Recap: Home Golds, Heartbreak, and Season Crowns

Men’s Recap

Setting the Stage

In Koper’s golden evening, the setters delivered a route as poetic as it was punishing—flowing with rhythm, decision moments, and momentum. It was climbing as cinema, every hold a scene.

Bright Liminals & Early Exits

The climb’s elegance made even a tiny slip feel seismic. Neo Suzuki’s right foot popped early, ending his final at 10+, a gut-punch exit from one of the favorites.
Putra Tri Ramadani quietly became another headline—Indonesia, known for speed climbing dominance, now showing real promise in lead. His first World Cup final was a breakthrough.

Olympic Glory vs World Cup Glory

All eyes were on Alberto Gines Lopez—an Olympic gold medalist yet still chasing his first World Cup win. He climbed to 47, sealing a medal and his best shot yet at that elusive gold. But Toby Roberts followed and fell at 46, cementing Gines Lopez’s silver.

Only One Japanese Climber Could Medal

Satone Yoshida sat nervously on the bubble of the podium with a score of 45, watching as his compatriot Sorato Anraku close the competition. Anraku delivered, reaching 48 to clinch gold—and leave Gines Lopez still chasing his first World Cup victory.

Men’s Podium – Koper Lead World Cup

Rank	Climber	Result
1	Sorato Anraku (JPN)	48+
2	Alberto Gines Lopez (ESP)	47+
3	Toby Roberts (GBR)	46+

Women’s Recap

Slovenia’s Sisters Take the Stage

In the electric atmosphere of Koper, four Slovenian women earned tickets to the final—an emphatic home showcase of depth and talent. Janja Garnbret, in peak form, shared a perfect semi-final climb with South Korea’s Seo Chaehyun, setting up a heavyweight battle in front of Garnbret’s home crowd.

Early Benchmarks

Erin McNeice climbed with a methodical approach, taking her time through the wall. She struggled with the clip before the roof but fought through, becoming the first to touch the headwall. Her climb ended just after, and though she held the high mark through four climbers, her disappointment was plain.

Laura Rogora, often tested by the big dynamic moves, managed to find a more static solution through the dyno. True to form, she flirted with the clock, still in the roof with 30 seconds left. She reached the headwall and guaranteed herself a medal, falling with just a handful of seconds to spare.

The Queen of Koper

Janja Garnbret is only competing in three World Cups this season, and hearing the roar when she stepped to the wall made it obvious why Koper was one of them. She reached the headwall with more than two minutes still on the clock, the crowd growing louder with each move. The finish required a taxing traverse rightward before a dyno to the last hold. Her right foot slipped on the leap, leaving her one hold shy of the top—but the ovation thundered anyway.

The Decider

Seo Chaehyun climbed with McNeice sitting on the bubble at 33. She steadied herself after a wobble around 24 and pressed higher. Once she touched the headwall the podium was set, bumping McNeice out. Seo fell at 38, edging past Rogora’s 37+ to lock in silver and confirm Garnbret as Koper’s champion.

Women’s Podium – Koper Lead World Cup

Rank	Climber	Result
1	Janja Garnbret (SLO)	47+
2	Seo Chaehyun (KOR)	38+
3	Laura Rogora (ITA)	37+

2025 IFSC World Cup Bali: Lead and Speed

Under the stunning backdrop of crashing waves in Bali, nobody shined brighter than American Samuel Watson. In the semi-finals, he blitzed up the wall in 4.67 seconds, breaking his own world record set at the 2024 Paris Olympic Games. In the final, he lined up next to Ryo Omasa looking to take his first gold this season and he clinched it in anticlimactic fashion when Omaso was called for a False Start, handing the gold to Watson. That wasn’t the end though, as Watson took the opportunity afforded to him and chose to go ahead and climb the wall once, uncontested, just he and the clock. Unbelievably, he bettered his semi-final time and set yet another world record, hitting the scoring pad in just 4.64 seconds.

After a surprise early exit before the medals a week ago, Alesandra Miroslaw absolutely dominated the speed wall for the women. Once getting through qualifications, she did not allow a race to even be close, winning all four races by a minimum of six tenths of a second. Yafei Zhou got the silver, while Adi Asih Kadek won the Small Final in front of her home crowd to take home the bronze medal.

The shock of the weekend came when Sorato Anraku fell moving to the 25th hold in the semi-finals, meaning he finished 16th, well outside the finals after gold in the opening boulder and lead events of the season. This opened the door for a new winner in the men’s final, which featured a sideways jump rather low on the wall that, while not immensely difficult, was clearly a move that made the climbers take notice.

Max Bertone was the first on the wall in the final, and he made it look like it was going to be a high scoring final, getting up the head wall all the way to hold 41 right out the gates. The route was far from forgiving though, as two climbers failed to reach hold twenty, and only three got to hold 31. Alberto Gines Lopez nearly matched Bertone, but fell at 39+. The final climber of the day was Satone Yoshida, and Bertone was still atop the leaderboard. Yoshida’s climb was anything but boring, as he looked to get himself in difficult positions multiple times, none more so than when he got the rope stuck underneath a volume and was really having to fight the rope the final third of the wall. Despite this, he made it to the head wall and reached hold 42, securing himself the gold and knocking Bertone down to silver.

The women were the nightcap, and they put on an absolute show! Mia Krampl put forth her typical edge of your seat performance and made it near the headwall, but that was only good enough for 7th. Ai Mori reached the top of the wall and clipped in, but time had run out, meaning she only got credit for hold 45. Still, essentially topping the route put her in an excellent spot, but that wound up only being good enough for bronze. Chaehyun Seo also made it to the top and clipped with time left on the clock after ending in a shared gold medal position a week ago with Erin McNeice . Seo and McNeice were the only two to top the route in the semi-finals, but McNeice had the better qualification score, meaning she got to climb last. McNeice naturally went on to match Seo again, and topped the route with almost the same time yet again, but that qualification score meant McNeice got to claim the gold all to herself, and Seo was awarded silver. Seo and McNeice are quickly becoming a rivalry to watch this IFSC season.

The next IFSC World Cup event comes May 16-18 as we go back to bouldering in Curitiba, Brazil, where there was a recent fire at the facility but all reports are the event will be able to proceed without issue.

2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup: Koper, Slovenia

Yes, it is a bit late to be joining into the 2023 Climbing World Cup season, especially given this was the second to last event of the season and many of the top climbers won’t be participating in China. That said, it is a sport that I have recently begun participating in and very much following, so let’s get some extra publicity to the sport of climbing.

The women’s lead title was crowned in the nightcap, which was fitting as Slovenia had three native climbers in the eight-woman final. It was heartbreak for Mia Krampl as her foot slipped after hold 11 going a dyno into the next section and leaving a clear black rubber streak on the foothold serving as a warning to all the climbers who came after her.

Another Slovenian climber, Vita Lukan, managed to bring home the bronze medal in a riveting climb. She lost her chalk bag in an incredibly technical section that saw all but one climber, Mori Ai (more on her in a moment), end up with their backs facing the wall and spinning around their rope to solve the most notable crux in the route. As she spun, the clip for her chalk bag came undone and snag on one of her harness loops. She reached back to get a handful of chalk but instead set the bag free to fall to the ground. Somehow unphased, Lukan continued climbing to the 40+ hold mark, which was just enough to earn a spot on the podium.

Ai put together an impressive climb, especially given the setup did favor the taller climbers, and she was the shortest in the final. As mentioned before, she was the only one not to go for the reverse hold and spin in the middle of the wall, instead putting in an impressive heel hold to get through the crux and ending up nearly reaching the top, before falling at 44+.

The final climber of the day was climbing superstar Janja Garnbret, and she put on a show for her home crowd. The fans were incredibly loud for her entire climb, regularly chanting “Janja” and “Slovenia” as she made the problem that stumped every climber before her look almost simple. She breezed her way to the top to claim gold.

On the men’s side, there was again only one climber to top the route, and he was also the last competitor to go. Anraku Sorato of Japan showed why he is a future star in the sport as he absolutely dominated the wall and made it look even easier than Janja did the women’s route. American Jesse Grupper found himself burning too much time at one of the most unique features you will see on a lead route. The right-handed swinging move that leads to a slight down jump before a full dyno with an underhand hold would be intimidating on a bouldering wall, it in the middle of a lead route is borderline crazy. Despite the uniqueness of the feature, every single climber did successfully solve it.

Grupper though did spend a lot of time in that section which led to him seeming to rush at the end as he found himself with a handful of maneuvers to complete with only 20 seconds left and fell on hold 42+. It really was a two man show as the bronze medal went to Olympic champion Alberto Gines Lopez, who only made it to hold 23.